Saturday, February 13, 2010

Tolkowsky Ideal Cut Diamond

The ideal cut diamond is the cut that most people desire to have in their piece of jewelry. It was in the year 1919, a well know engineer Marcel Tolkowsky published a book under the title ‘Diamond Design’. The book encapsulates the diamond proportions that form a merely round cut diamond to an ideally proportioned one, that would give maximum brilliance and stand out to an ideal cut diamond. 

Marcel Tolkowsky, a mathematician by profession, applied the fundamental law of physics to calculate a set of proportions that would cause the optical performance of a round brilliant cut diamond. Since, childhood he had got a real life exposure to diamond cutting process because his family were in the diamond business. 

The fundamental of an ideal cut diamond proved to be exceptional and got approved by well know experts from the diamond industry. Tolkowsky was contented as his studies of proportioning the diamond matched to his calculations which were initially used by experts. The experts in the diamond industry were quite happy with his analysis thus eventually making it the famous Ideal cut till date.

In the year 1950, AGS applied Tolkowsky’s model and made a few changes in the symmetry and polish of the diamond to complete their system. In 2006, they came up with a new method which was formed on light performance. Since then, they used quite similar proportions as to Tolkowsky and he became the creator of the modern round brilliant cut which is still rated as one of the best in the diamond industry!

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

All You Wanted to Know About Emerald Cut Diamond

The overview of any diamond is considered through its cut, as the cut is the main aspect for a diamond to form into a particular shape. However, Emerald Cut is one such shape that is known for its elegant beauty.



Most fancy cut loose diamonds are brilliantly cut to procure maximum amount of light that sparks and catches the eye of an individual. Emerald cut is one of the cuts that has become popular for its fine elegance rather than lesser light reflection as compared to round brilliant and princess cut.

The emerald cut loose diamond features the fine characteristics through “Step Cut”. The “Step Cut” usually designed with large facets gives a mirror reflection and resembles like a staircase, so is the name.

Loose emerald cut diamond is quite hard stone viz (7.5 - 8.0 on the MOHS scale), and known for its various inclusions such as naturally occurred internal flaws. These inclusions make the stone more damaged and breakable and at times it becomes very difficult to cut the stone.

In emerald cut, there are chances of imperfections or inclusions that can be visible in terms of flaws, color weakness, breakage and a poor cutting technique when it is cut into the emerald shape as compared to round brilliant cut. When shopping for Emerald cut loose diamond, the key essential is to look at its four C’s and overall quality of the diamond.

The Specifications of an Ideal proportioned Emerald cut diamond are- the depth and table ranges shown below that would differentiates the qualities of a cut.
  • Depth Percentage
  • Ideal: 72% – 60%
  • Excellent: 76% – 56%
  • Very Good: 78% – 54%
  • Good: 80% – 50%
  • Table Percentage
  • Ideal: 72% – 60%
  • Excellent: 74% – 55%
  • Very Good: 76% – 50%
  • Good: 80% – 50%
  • Length-to-width ratio: 1.35:1 to 1.65:1.
To know more about the terms precisely, look for GIA Diamond Grade System.

Monday, February 1, 2010

The Overview of Round Shape loose diamond

Diamond is one the most precious stones and its various shapes have an own unique quality. The diamond shape reflects the sparkling effects that catch the attention of the viewer, be it any shape that you opt for.

Now a days, the round cut diamond is the most desirable choice of people for their engagement rings and wedding bands. The round cut diamond is brilliantly cut to get instant sparkling effect that appeal to the heart of any individual. It is also called as ‘Ideal’ cut loose diamond.

The Round shape loose diamond is one of a kind that is sought specifically for events like engagement ring, wedding band and anniversary occasion. This infinite circular shape is considered as eternal. The brilliant cut stone is the perfect example to show the fine beauty of round cut loose diamond that maintains its shine forever.

Round Loose Diamonds: Shape and Appearance


Round shape diamond basically has a cone shape structure and its top surface is called as “The Crown”. It further expands its base wider that narrows down at the bottom to form a sharp point towards the end of the stone. This design structure was incorporated during 17th century by Ambassador Julian Cardinal Mazarin and hence it was called as Mazarins cuts. The Mazarins cut used to procure maximum amount of shine. So Mr. Mazarin formed the stone cut in to 17 plane surfaces now called as facets as they acquire light rays that travel across the stone.

Another jewelry scholar, Vincent Peruzzi came up with 33 facets and Mr. Marcel Tolkowsky who was not satisfied with this concept, and began with the research of Mazarin's design and gave a precise and thorough mathematical model for it. He came up with a solution and applied geometrical calculations, wherein he discovered that a 58 facet cut would procure maximum amount of brilliance, which further identified as a perfect way to proportion the stone – crown, angle diameter and base.

Tolkowsky's Loose Round Diamonds Method


Many Jewelers still follow the "Tolkowsky's Ideal Cut Method". This type of round loose diamond diameter would range between 52.4 to 57.5 percent, and the crown angled within the range of 33.7% and 35.8%. He advices that the round loose diamond ‘pavilion” (the cone where the crown is built) should be a measure between the range of 42.2% and 43.8%. But some jewelry experts believe that Tolkowsky's proportions will be limited at one point of time and hence offered other methods to be used for cutting a stone.

Eventually, it is the user who finally sees the brilliance and would perfectly judge the stone to determine the inner cut quality of the stone that would be the result of real brilliance to buy the round loose diamond.
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